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"Nearly perfect, the opaque black/purple-colored 1998 Shiraz Reserve (2,300 cases) plays to the great strength of Australia -- powerful, naturally-textured, super-rich wines that are big and chewy. Exceptionally rich and explosive, with great purity as well as remarkable symmetry and overall balance for such massiveness, this blockbuster can be drunk now or cellared for 12-15 years. Make no doubt about it, this Shiraz will elicit more than a few "wows" in any tasting - blind or otherwise. "
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